"Eyes," Ana Maria Reyes answered.

to learn more If you'd like to find out more about Intercambio or volunteer opportunities at El Centro Latino (101 Lloyd St., Carrboro, NC 27510), call Scarlett Aldebot at 932-4652.

Lewis touched her afro.

"Hair," Reyes said.

Lewis held out her pecan-colored arm, touched her hand to her shoulder and motioned to the peak.

"Elbow?" Reyes ventured, glancing her eyes up at Lewis.

Sitting across the dining room table from Reyes last Tuesday, Lewis beamed. Her partner got it right. Once a week for the last three months, the pair have been each other's teacher in an El Centro Latino program that matches people who want conversational language practice. Lewis, a UNC-Chapel Hill clerical assistant, helps Reyes learn English. Reyes, a stay-at-home mom, gabs with Lewis in Spanish so she can pick up the rhythms of everyday speech. Lewis knowing some Spanish and Reyes being a quick study eased the language barrier and allowed more time to get to know each other. Already, they're becoming friends.

They giggle and lean in close to share secrets the way girlfriends do. They commiserate about wanting to lose weight. On a recent day, Lewis hung out with Reyes' children at their Carrboro home before Reyes arrived. They chattered about nail polish, watched "Rugrats." When Reyes came in, Lewis gave her friend's hand a playful tug pulling her toward her. Reyes laughed and shooed her away.

Reyes moved here a dozen years ago from Jalisco, Mexico, hoping for a better life. She knew no English. She felt helpless when her children brought notes home from school. Going to stores, where she couldn't ask for what she wanted, was an ordeal.

In 1998, Reyes attended a school on Franklin Street with other native Spanish speakers. When Reyes had trouble understanding a word or expression in English, some people laughed at her. Other people weren't as serious as she was about learning. "People were goofing off," she said. While Reyes struggled to pick up English on her own, her family's skills grew. Her husband, Mario Castaneda, got practice at his job at a glass company. Her children became fluent at school. Reyes, who spent most of her day cleaning the house and caring for her children, was left behind. Someone told Reyes about Intercambio, a 2-year-old program at El Centro Latino, a nonprofit organization dedicated to improving the lives of Latinos in and around Orange County, which brings people who want to practice every-day English together with those who want to practice Spanish, make Latino friends or are bilingual. She signed up.

Meanwhile in another part of town, Lewis, who had studied Spanish in high school and college, wanted to keep her skills fresh. "I also just wanted to get to know someone Latino a little better, more than just surface," Lewis said. "I wanted to get to know someone on a personal level."

A friend told her about El Centro Latino's program. Lewis gave her name and waited for a match.

Scarlett Aldebot is in charge of making Intercambio connections. As she considered schedule, age and language proficiency, she thought of Lewis and Reyes. Lewis' bits of Spanish would help communication with Reyes, who knew little English. She set up their first meeting in February at El Centro Latino. "I get it started," said Aldebot, a volunteer coordinator. "Then, after that, it's up to them. It takes on a life of its own."

Taking turns

When Lewis and Reyes met, they were shy. Lewis was the first African-American Reyes was getting to know. Lewis had no Latino close friends. "When you don't really know a person, everyone is really formal," Lewis said. "Everyone is on their p's and q's." The distance melted as they found they had a few things in common. They lived in Carrboro. Both were married. They were similar in age. Lewis is a 28-year-old UNC grad. Reyes, 32, is a mama of three.

By their second meeting, the women relaxed. Reyes brought her son to Lewis' apartment. They turned on "Spider-man" to keep him busy. Then, Lewis started naming things around her apartment -- couch, TV, plant. The next time, they met at Reyes' home and it was her turn to teach.

Each time they met, their guards lowered more. Reyes asked Lewis to stay and have dinner with her family. They talked about going on trips together. Reyes and her husband told Lewis they go to Mexico twice a year and invited her to come along. "I was like, 'Of course, we can we go now,' " Lewis said.

In their time together, Lewis got to know Reyes' spirit. "She's a great person, easy to get along with," she said. "She's humble and open-minded. Some people it's like pulling teeth to get a word out of them. She's outgoing."

What does Reyes like about Lewis? She appreciates her patience, the way she listens and talks.

"Todo," she said, finally.

Everything.

Talking with Reyes is much better than textbook lessons, Lewis said. She hears slang, intonations. She practices conversation and learns words for everyday things as they come up.

"A native speaker can tell you if what you're saying is awkward," Lewis said. "Or if there's a different way to say it."

Learning Spanish in her world is crucial, Lewis said. In her apartment complex, people of different races and nationalities mix. On a recent day, a group of Latino men laughed together near the entrance. A black man waved at a Latino mom and daughter who sat together on a step. At UNC, Lewis has co-workers whose first tongue is Spanish. Now, Lewis can help translate for them.

"You find that people open up to you more," Lewis said. "When you speak their language, they usually are a little surprised, saying, 'Oh, you speak Spanish. You speak so well.' They get really excited."

Reyes is making progress too. She no longer fears going into stores. She is proud when she can read a note from school or talk to a teacher.

At Reyes' house Tuesday, the friends started with business.

"Hi, I'm Ana Maria," Reyes said, practicing her greeting.

"Hi, I'm Kyna," Lewis replied, grinning and shaking her hand.

But when the lesson ended, Lewis stuck around. As Reyes' children played video games, the two women sat on the sofa watching soap operas.

They talked about Mexico as night closed in around them.

Staff writer Kelly Starling-Lyons can be reached at 829-4636 or mailto:kstarlin@newsobserver.com

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